Again, this isn't my actual picture but it gives you an idea. The radio is pretty tricked out with features. It has the normal extras, like end point adjustments, which really come in handy when setting up linkages. It is a lot easier to change endpoints on the radio than to do it mechanically. One feature it has that may be of interest to beginners is servo speed adjustments. They allow you to artificially slow down the speed of the servos. Beginners might find this useful while starting out because it makes the car less "touchy" to user input. Once you've become a-customed to driving R/C cars you'll want to turn this off to re-gain full speed of the servos. As I mentioned before, my steering servo is high-speed. This is really useful in tight S-curves where you need to turn full steering in one direction then suddenly full steering in the other.
Other features include a switch that is concealed behind a little door on the back end of the transmitter that allows you to turn the transmitter on without it transmitting a signal. This feature may not seem useful to the casual user, but is if your in the pits at a race and want to make an adjustment on the radio. In the pits you are not allowed to transmit a signal unless you're up in the driver's stand driving because may interfere with the racers signals. Also if you want to adjust the servos in the pit there is a jack in the back that will allow connection to the receiver without transmitting a signal. The Futaba 3PJ is a great radio and I would recommend it to anyone who is racing or just wants the convieniences that only a computer radio can provide.

Update: This model is long discontinued. The current Futaba flagship car radio is the 3PK.

One negative aspect to the design of this car is the routing of the wire for the reciever battery. The battery's wire must pass the engines in order to reach the receiver. This could be problematic as the wire could touch the engine causing its insulation to melt and thus causing an electical short. Trying to go around the engine isn't plausible because on one side you risk getting the wires caught in the gears and on the other side you risk hitting the exhaust pipe. The best and pretty much only solution is to route the wire between the engine head and the carbuerator. To be safe you should also wrap the wire with a piece of silicon fuel tubing. You can do this by cutting lengthwise into a piece of fuel tubing a slit, then place the tubing over the wire. Should the wire touch the engine, the tubing will protect it and should not melt at normal engine temperatures. In the photo the wire to the battery is loose. This isn't the case when I run.
The RC10GT includes a tuned pipe in the kit. I decided howver, to use the pipe that came with the combo I had purchased instead. I'm not sure what brand it is but I like it a lot better than the Associated pipe. In terms of power it seems the same, but It has a much deeper sound and is quieter than the stock pipe.